Adjusting to Braided Line

If you haven't picked up the April edition of FLW's Bass Fishing magazine, grab a copy and take a look at the article on properly adjusting to braided line. If you haven't made the switch yet, its worth your consideration. In honor of the article, we're revisiting our video on properly adjusting to braided line.

There have been a few advancements in braided line since this video was uploaded but we still make all of these same adjustments. The brands of line may have changed (Sufix 832 is hard to beat) but the concepts and principals are as applicable now as the day the video was shot. Do yourself a favor and start making the switch to an "All Braid Diet" before your next trip!

 

Part 2: Knots and Hooks for Braided Line

There are still a lot of misconceptions about braided line. The biggest fear is that of knot strength. The second is the fear of bending out hooks. This week's video is dedicated to debunking these misconceptions and teaching you how to avoid all of the potential pitfalls.

Learning to tie proper knots for braid to leader connections, braid to hook connections, as well as leader to hook connections, is critical. If you can practice 3 simple knots with 3 variations for different line sizes and types, you'll be able to adapt to any conditions and situations the fish can throw your way. The knots are the Blood knot, San Diego Jam Knot, and Palomar Knot. The video will also break down the variations of all 3 knots I use to adapt to different lines and keep these knots strong.

6 lb fluorocarbon tied to 15 lb braided line with a modified blood knot (7 wraps on the fluorocarbon, 11 wraps on the braid) Shown with a worm hook eyelet for size comparison. Truly a "micro" knot.

The blood knot, for whatever reason, has not gained popularity with bass fishermen. It is by far the best knot I've found for connecting braid to both monofilament and fluorocarbon leader materials. When tied properly I can break the leaders over and over again without breaking the connection knot itself.

Another fear about connection knots is that they will be traveling in and out of the guides and "banging". The theory is that this stresses and weakens the line. While this could be true, I've not experienced it. I reel my connections knots in and out of the guides (and even on/off of the reel) hundreds of times each day and have no issues whatsoever. The smaller line diameters in particular (see the pictures for size reference to a worm hook eyelet) create such small knots that they have no problem passing in and out of the reel without making any noise. There is no reason to fear a connection knot if you tie it the way I show in the video.

Dealing with braided line, its lack of stretch, and how this applies to the hooks you choose to use is actually very simple. There is no mystery, no question of whether or knot your hooks can withstand the forces of braided line and big fish, you simply need to adapt. If you're currently using mono or fluoro and want to make the switch, step up your hooks. If you currently use light wire worm hooks, switch to medium. If you use heavy worm hooks, switch to the 3x Owner, ZO-Wire Owner, or Gamakatsu Superline Hooks. If you're using trebles, step up to owner 3x trebles (ST-56) or even gamakatsu 4x hooks.

Give these tips a try and report back with your experiences. Have you found another knot that simply does not break when under stress? We'd love to hear about it!

 

 

Part 1: Why You Should Use Braided Line

In much of the country, braided fishing line has been extremely well received. Anglers have found that its easier to feel baits, get strong hooksets, and haul fish out of heavy cover. Despite the overall acceptance there are still a few places where it is viewed as overkill, accused of unreliability, and some fishermen even blame it when they're not catching fish. Even after decades of successful use some anglers still hold out.

I really believe the misconceptions about braid come from a lack of education. I remember sitting in a seminar listening to an angler talk about braid and genuinely believing he was lying to me. I've been there, I've felt it, so its easy to understand how some guys still make those same mistakes.

I filmed this video several years ago but the information is still so relevant. After several years of experimentation and on the water experiences I still agree with every word in the clip.

For those that are ready to learn, allow me to introduce you to how simple it is to make the transition to braided line. This is such a great topic we're going to break it down in to two parts. Today in Part 1 I'll discuss how to adjust your equipment. In Part 2 we will cover how to adjust your terminal tackle including an explanation of leaders, knots, and superline hooks.

Matt's favorite braids for swimbaits (p-line), frogs and flipping (Power Pro) and jigs or finesse fishing (Sufix 832)

Let's dispel some myths:

Most anglers are afraid that switching to braid will cost them a lot of money. Whether it be the actual cost of braided line, the cost of new rods/reels, or just some perceived expense, this is a real concern. Let me dispel it by saying, DON'T BUY NEW RODS. The gear you have is perfect for braid. Instead of buying new gear simply experiment with slightly softer rods for each bait category. (use a medium where you used to use a medium heavy, or a heavy instead of an extra heavy.) As for cost of braid, its often a non-issue because you may only spool a reel 1-2 times per year.

Another concern is that braid can only be used in murky water. This simply is not true. I've successfully fished braid (with and without a leader) in water with 20-40 feet of visibility. Its important that you understand each style of bait you're throwing. If the bass is keying on the bait (reaction) they generally will not be bothered by the visible line. If the fish is studying the bait before committing then visibility is an issue but can easily be solved by tying a leader of mono or fluorocarbon. In addition to concealing the line, the leader will also act as a buffer and shock absorber. Shock absorption is key to keeping fish hooked when the battle comes close to the boat.

Tim and Matt with handfuls of bass that were easily landed on 20-30 lb braided line

Finally, braid isn't just for power fishing. While heavy cover is where braid found its niche, its expanded to every corner of bass fishing. Whether you're throwing a walking topwater like a Spook for suspended fish, or dropshotting 50 feet deep in a clear reservoir, braid will improve your catch rate. The line is extremely responsive, even over great distance. This allows you to feel more bites, set the hook more easily, and work baits without as much physical effort. The finesse applications for light braid are endless. The deeper the water, the lighter the lure weights, the more dramatic the benefits will be.

Making the transition can be a little scary at first but take the step. Choose a rod or two and take the leap! In part two I'll show you the knots you need to know, how to set up leaders correctly, as well as some quick tips on hooks to get you headed in the right direction. Its time to take the leap and experience what you've been missing!

 

Line Extremes: Part 1

To my surprise the most common questions that roll in to the site are those about line. Whether it be about specific techniques or more generalized questions, anglers really want to understand the line they are using. No longer do anglers settle for pros telling them to throw line “x” or line “y”. Now they want to know when, how, and most important, WHY.
In the past I’ve told you that I use braid in nearly every application. I’ve also explained my reasoning behind that so for today we will skip past it. Whether you use braid, mono, or flouro, I believe this topic will apply equally. I call it fishing the “Line Extremes” for big bass. Personally, these extremes apply to my leader material but for you it may apply to your main line.
Let’s define what I mean by extremes. On a given day you will not find a lot of “in between” line sizes on my boat. Sure, there are techniques that require 8, 10, 12, and 15 lb line but those typically aren’t big bass applications. For the sake of today’s discussion I will be ignoring applications that require these line sizes.
In part 2 I will discuss fishing with extremely light line and why it can be deadly effective but today we’re going to discuss the other end of the spectrum.
Extremely heavy line has its place, even in clear water. Many anglers are shocked to find that I use 65-80 lb braid and 25-30 lb mono and flourocarbon leaders for every day techniques. I can often be found flipping a jig on 25 lb, swimbaiting on 30 lb, or throwing a topwater on 80 lb. Why do I do this when I am knowingly eliminating bites? Simple… I don’t believe I am eliminating bites at all. If I fished with 30 lb monofilament every day of the year I would absolutely be hurting myself but by studying the conditions you will realize that sometimes the bass don’t care about line size. On those days, fishing with extremely heavy line actually helps you catch bigger fish.
The obvious question at this point is, “how can heavy line help?” I’m going to use a video as an example.

Prior to this video I noticed that despite crystal clear conditions the bass did not seem to respond to changes in line size at all. Instead of continuing to use light line I stepped up to a very heavy flourocarbon. When I hooked this bass I immediately knew I was in trouble. The fish had managed to get the hook in her lower jaw, right where I would normally lip her. As the fight nears the boat it becomes clear that I can’t grab her. She was shaking and thrashing and was sure to come off at any minute if I didn’t make a quick decision. If I had been using light line I wouldn’t have been able to do anything about the situation but since I had stepped up my line size, I literally grabbed the line and dragged her into the boat with no fear of breakage.
In this case, I can thank my heavy line for getting this bass in the boat. Will this logic work in every application? There are times when sticking to heavy line will result in less (or no) fish. However, if you learn to watch the bass’ response it becomes very obvious when you can step up line size to maximize your chance of landing a trophy bass.
…More to come in part 2.